From Lovell to Everest: Two locals chase a dream at 20,075 feet

By: 
John Bernhisel

For most people in the Big Horn Basin, a hike to the Five Springs waterfall or a climb to the Black Mountain Fire Lookout is enough of a challenge. For two men from Lovell, that idea has been taken to an entirely different level.

Kyle Leithead, 46, and Pete Baxendale, 39, are currently trekking through the Himalayas of Nepal, working their way toward Everest Base Camp and elevations topping out at 20,075 feet, more than a mile higher than Wyoming’s highest peak. Their journey is not a quick trip, but nearly a month of hiking, climbing and adapting to some of the harshest and most breathtaking conditions on earth.

What started as a simple idea has turned into something much bigger.

The spark came from a casual moment, Baxendale posted on Facebook while watching a Mt. Everest movie and eating a bowl of soup, joking about the climbers on screen, “That can’t be that hard!” Leithead quickly responded, “Let’s go!” From that moment on, it was game on.

“What started back in September has now evolved into the reality of a dream I have had for many years,” Leithead wrote before leaving. “Tomorrow Pete and I head to the Himalayas in Nepal. … It just got real!”

Getting there was no small task. The two spent months preparing, both physically and mentally. Leithead described a demanding training routine.

“The dreaded Stair Stepper was the bulk of the training,” he wrote. “To date, my totals are 5,242 floors, 89,219 steps, 52,420 feet of elevation … LOTS OF DRENCHED SHIRTS!”

They also spent months gathering gear and securing the right guides, eventually choosing a company that helped them customize a route that included not only Everest Base Camp, but a summit attempt on Lobuche Peak.

 

Then came the journey

“30 hours of traveling!! Billings to Seattle, then to Hong Kong (14 hr flight) and finally arrived in Kathmandu. A wide variety of feelings, but man this is going to be awesome!!” Baxendale wrote.

Kathmandu itself was a shock to the system.

“This country lives SOOOOO different!” Leithead wrote. “Non-stop open front shops, open markets, construction in very unmodern ways, tons of motorcycles, walking in/through traffic … a completely different way of life.”

At a Hindu temple along the Bagmati River, they witnessed cremation rituals performed in the open.

“It was raw, unfiltered and something crazy to be able to witness,” Leithead wrote. “Things are quite different here!!!”

From there, the adventure truly began. Plans to fly into Lukla, often called one of the most dangerous airports in the world, were disrupted by weather. Instead, the group pooled money for a helicopter flight.

“Secretly, we were all hoping for a helicopter flight so we got what we wished for … and man was it amazing!” Leithead wrote. “Nepal is a beautiful country. … Sorry Wyoming, but you don’t hold a candle to Nepal!!!!”

Once on the ground, the real work started. The trek began with relatively modest distances but quickly became more demanding as the elevation increased. On the second day, Baxendale described crossing unbelievable suspension bridges and gradually gaining nearly 3,000 feet.

“The hike was difficult but not unpleasant,” he wrote. “We took a slow pace to help acclimate.”

Acclimation is critical at high altitude. The body must adjust to thinner air, and the process cannot be rushed. The pair followed the classic rule: “hike high, sleep low.”

“The air is getting thinner up here,” Leithead wrote. “Those early mornings on the stair stepper have been paying off.”

As the elevation climbed, so did the sense of awe. On one acclimation hike, the group reached a viewpoint where the world’s tallest peaks came into view.

“Our first view of Everest, and it did not disappoint!!! Pictures will never do justice!” Leithead wrote.

“I’ve now seen the GIANT!” Baxendale added. “You would not believe the views. … I could have stayed there all day.”

Environmental concerns were impossible to ignore along the trail.

“The hardest thing to see has been the trash. It’s worse than you’d think,” Baxendale said, noting that even in such a remote and breathtaking place, the impact of heavy tourism is visible. Efforts are underway to address the problem, and he believes small actions can add up. “If every hiker carried out one kilo (2.2 pounds), it would make a real difference.”

But for all the beauty, the journey has also been a lesson in humility. Leithead recalled a moment that stopped him in his tracks when he realized the woman hiking behind him was blind. “And she’s hiking to EBC (Everest Base Camp),” he wrote. “She won’t be able to see the amazing sights, but she’s hiking to base camp because she can. Today I was grounded and thankful for all I have been blessed with.”

Baxendale experienced a similar perspective shift. He described encountering a man with “one arm missing and both of his legs were gone,” adding, “He was making his way on two prosthetic legs and had a smile on his face. It really made me pause to think what could I possibly have to complain about.”

Life along the trail is simple, and often uncomfortable. Lodging comes in small “tea houses” heated by wood stoves or even dried yak dung. Electricity is limited and often powered by solar energy. Bathrooms are basic, and nights are cold.

“The lodge at Dole was very basic and extremely cold,” Baxendale wrote. “Common bathroom down the hall. We tried not to use it much.”

Food is simple but sustaining, though not always memorable.

“The yak steak … I can say I tried it, won’t try it again,” Leithead joked. “Good flavor, chewy as Chewbacca!!!”

Yet even in the hardships, there are moments of connection. Leithead recalled meeting a young girl in a mountain village.

“She sweetly asked me if I wanted to go skiing with her,” he wrote. “No way was I going to say no… Sweetest girl on the mountain!!”

What stood out just as much as the mountains were the people who call the Khumbu home.

“The people in the Khumbu region are incredible. Friendly, resourceful, and making a life in a place that most of us could hardly imagine,” Baxendale said. He was especially struck by the porters, who keep the entire trekking system moving. “Porters are the backbone of everything here. They carry the mountain on their backs.” He added, “It’s amazing to watch them haul huge loads with nothing but a strap across their foreheads.”

There are also moments of reflection that go beyond the physical challenge.

“This world is a spectacular place,” Baxendale wrote. “There is a tangible energy that radiates off the mountain. God is present, and you can see his glory.”

As the trek continues, the terrain has grown more extreme. The pair has crossed glaciers, climbed steep ridges and reached elevations above 17,500 feet.

“Standing on one side looking to the other didn’t seem incredibly far,” Leithead wrote. “But hiking across it proved to be a long trek!”

At one point, they rose before dawn to climb Gokyo Ri, reaching over 17,600 feet.

“And man was it worth every step,” Leithead wrote. “We sat and admired Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu. The morning was beautiful with perfect weather.”

The mountains he mentioned are four of the six highest mountains on Earth.

Through it all, the mindset has remained steady.

“One step after the other,” Leithead wrote.

And perhaps that is the simplest way to understand what they are doing. Not just climbing toward Everest Base Camp or pushing toward 20,000 feet but chasing something that started as a simple idea months ago.

“A dream I have had for many years,” Leithead wrote.

And now, step by step, they are living it. With more than two weeks remaining and some of the most challenging climbs still ahead, their journey is far from over. Another update will follow as they complete the trek and make their way back down from the top of the world. 

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